How to train with a target? And which one to choose?
A target, simply put, is a designated object that a dog is supposed to touch in some way. Usually, they have to place their head or paws on it: front or even back. Basically, anything with a clearly defined surface that clearly limits the space where the exercise should take place, start and also end, can be a target. At Loype, we make ones that are stable and don't overturn, making them much safer to work with.
Why include target training in your dogs rutine?
It depends on what you do with your furry friend. If you mainly want to spend your free time together, you can use the target as a training aid at home to practice a lot of tricks. If you actively do sports with your dog and the dog regularly delivers high running performance, your main benefit from using the target will be stretching the dog's muscles as part of active resting phase.
This is a key support activity in other dog sports like obedience, agility, and dog dancing. It's also useful if the dog learns that training can take place on different surfaces. We recommend to start training on an elevated target - with it, the dog more easily understands what is expected of them. In terms of size, it should initially correspond to the size of your dog, and if we are teaching it to put its back paws on it, then it should be even slightly larger. Once the dog has mastered working with its paws, we can move on to smaller and lower targets, which are challenging, especially if we send the dog to perform the exercise from a distance. Different types of targets can be combined depending on what we are trying to achieve.
Target training: is shaping or luring better?
Shaping is great because the dog learns to work independently, thinks more, and gets tired more. Not every exercise can be taught this way, but with targets it's pretty easy. In the first step, we call the dog, tell it we're going to train, and place the target in front of it. Is the dog looking at the target with interest? We immediately use this to reward attention. Note that just before each reward, there should be a verbal label that indicates the dog's correct behavior. It should be short and punchy, like "yes," "good," or "super."
Feel free to choose any word you want, but stick with it throughout all your training activities so as not to confuse the dog. This label can also be replaced with a clicker if you work better with it and the dog is used to it. After getting a treat, the dog already suspects that the rewards somehow relate to that strange thing on the ground. Gradually, it will start trying to figure out what else could bring it such a yummy treat — and when it tries with its paw on the target, another reward is guaranteed.
We only add commands when the dog can safely put both paws on the target. In this way, it will associate the word with the given activity and will know what is expected of it when it hears the command. You probably won't be able to go through the whole process at once, but that's okay, it's better to take it slow and take breaks between training sessions.
And how does luring work?
The dog has to perform the entire exercise at once, but the disadvantage is that it focuses on the food in our hand and not on the exercise. Some dogs can also easily figure out this easy manipulation and start to "go on strike". With luring, the beginning of the training is the same as with shaping, i.e., we call the dog, verbally start the training, and place the target on the ground. At this point, we show the dog a treat, gradually guide the dog onto the target, and as soon as the dog stands on it with at least one paw, we say the verbal label and give it a reward.
Next, we want it to stay on the target for a while, so we guide it back with a treat, wait a few seconds, say the verbal label, and reward it again. When the dog can put one paw on the target, we guide it to stand on it with both paws and then reward the correct procedure. Then we proceed similarly to shaping, i.e., if the dog performs the exercise correctly several times in a row, we add the command.
A few final tips
- Positive approach: This has definitely proven itself in all human-dog activities, and target training is no exception. The dog should always enjoy training with you, otherwise it won't be motivated to continue.
- Proceed slowly: No one was born learned, and each dog needs a slightly different approach. For some, it will work right away, for others only on the 50th attempt. Don't give up, don't push the dog, and enjoy the time together. And when it seems that the dog is doing the tricks with ease, try to make it more difficult for them and create new challenges.
- Stop at the best: Initially, a few minutes of training will be enough for the dog, so try to include the exercise several times a day so that it doesn't get too tired in one go. Gradually increase the intervals, but be careful to end when the dog is still enjoying it. If the training ends with a bored expression, it won't want to train much next time. End the training right after the dog performs the exercise correctly and gets a reward, then it will be motivated to continue.
Which target to choose?
The more experience the dog has with targets, the smaller and lower the target can be chosen. For beginners, we recommend the Hamtal Up target with an elevated platform and a foam surface. For energetic dogs, the Hamtal tartan-rubber variant is suitable, which is more stable, more durable, and available in 4 sizes or the Agility variant. More advanced dogs can move on to the round Pivot target, on which you can practice turns, for example. We produce it in both foam and rubber versions - we also have it in an elevated variant, the Double target, or in a miniature version, the Mini pivot, with which you can refine nose touches or precise paw positions. The elongated Strivee target will help you improve your show stance or position by the foot. However, the target does not have to only test the work of the paws. Our Nosewand target is designed for nose touches, i.e., touching the nose at a specific place you designate.
